By Tom Mangione

Accommodation with Chineses elegance. Photo: Courtesy of Zhengfu Caotang

Tongli is located on the outskirts of Suzhou, just 40 minutes from downtown, and like Suzhou, it has several lush gardens featuring traditional Chinese architecture and horticulture. Tongli's most prominent garden is the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911AD) Tuisi Garden. In Chinese, the word tuisi means "retreat" and "reflection," so, as expected, the garden boasts a number of pagodas and towers perched above a large goldfish pond, ideal for facilitating contemplation. While the hordes of tourists milling about may detract from this purpose, the views are pleasant, and lingering in the quieter spots still leaves time for thought. In the Gathering Beauty Pavilion, designed for observing the moonlight, one can ponder the meaning of poems written in ancient Chinese about the differing nature of rocks high on the mountainside and those deep under water.

Pearl's a singer

Those tired of seeking inspiration in the nooks of gardens can choose to watch a performance of traditional Wuxi opera staged during weekends and holidays from 10 am to 11:30 am and 3 pm to 4 pm. These shows re-enact various scenes from The Pearl Pagoda, a melodrama once serialized on Chinese television and which details the love affair between Fang Qing and Chen Cui'e. So the story goes, Fang wished to marry Chen, but didn't have the money or status required to win her family's approval. In order to improve his chances, Fang hoped to take the imperial examination, but didn't have enough money to travel in order to do so. To help Fang, Chen wrapped a miniature tower made of pearls in a box of sweets for his trip. Today, travelers to Tongli can still see the compound where Chen lived, and the Pearl Pagoda where she allegedly gave Fang the treasure that funded his journey.

The unique architecture style of Tongli. Photo: IC

Let's talk about sex

After a recent move from Shanghai, Tongli has now become the new center for the China Sex Museum. Open-minded individuals can enjoy a stroll through the sculpture garden and see four indoor exhibitions about the history of sexuality, namely: "Sex in Primitive Society," "Marriage and Women," "Sex in Daily Life," and "Unusual Sex-ual Behavior." The museum aims to be more than just a voyeuristic attraction, and its academic credentials validated by museum director Liu Dalin who is a professor of sociology at the University of Shanghai.

A number of exhibits are worth a mention, including statue of a grandson and his grandfather, sporting an elongated, phallic head with a turtle resting on the tip. The visual pun is that the tip of the penis (guitou) and the word for turtle (wugui) share the same character. Friezes of group sex rituals, involving multiple partners from the Eastern Han Dynasty (25- 220AD) provide a fascinating glimpse of a sexual culture starkly at odds from that of today. A number of instruments of torture for unfaithful and wanton women are on display. There's also the collection of yaxiangdi (literally, "bottom of the box"), figurines placed at the bottom of a trunk given to a woman on her wedding day which illustrate sexual positions to the uninitiated. Students of Chinese will be particularly interested in an exhibit on the etymology of Chinese characters derived from phallic and yonic radicals. For instance, 吉 (luck) is apparently derived from the union of phallic and yonic radicals.

You'll know you've reached the museum when you see the statue of a man with a giant, erect phallus the same size as his body, grinning fiendishly. It's impossible to miss.

Postcards and peace

In addition to the sights, Tongli also provides visitors with the chance to try authentic local cuisine, enjoy some quality downtime and even grab some solitude with an overnight stay. Local specialties including fenglisu (pineapple pastry) and wadisu (stocking-bottom pastry), a savory, crispy foot-shaped biscuit flavored with spring onions and black sesame, are both sold at numerous local bakeries. Those wanting to grab a Western style coffee and tea in the afternoon can stop by Momi (28 Fuguan Road), a small cafe that is completely festooned with postcards sat in dozens of small cubby shelves covering the walls. For 2 yuan (29c), the cafe will mail postcards at any date of your choosing.

At night, the canals are illuminated with traditional Chinese red lanterns hung from the eaves of the surrounding buildings; an ideal time for some quiet reflection or a romantic walk. Those looking to splurge can stay at Zhengfu Caotang (138-58 Xinmingqing Street), a luxury accommodation with a sister hotel in Yunnan's perennial tourist haven, Lijiang. Rooms here provide traditional Chinese elegance with all of the comforts of urban living. Rooms are from 480 yuan per night and upwards. For those looking for more modest accommodation, the Tongli International Youth Hostel has accommodation from 55 yuan per person per night.

Getting there

Round-trip tour buses from Shanghai Stadium to Tongli begin leaving at 8:30 am for 130 yuan round-trip (1 ½ hours each way)

One way buses from Shanghai Long Distance Bus Station near Shanghai Railway Station's North Square starting at 9:40 am for 35 yuan (2 hours each way)

An entry ticket into Tongli's historic area costs 80 yuan and includes admission to all sites except the Chinese Sex Musuem (entry 20 yuan)

Tongli's official website: www.tongli.net

Zhengfu Caotang: www.zfct. net, 0512-6332 0576

Tongli International Youth Hostel: blog.sina.com.cn/ tonglihostel, 0512-6333 9311