Cheap and cheerful eats

By Kyle J. Mitchell Source:Global Times Published: 2013-11-15 5:03:01

Main: Shanghai's former French Concession area Photo: Cai Xianmin/GT

Shanghai's former French Concession area Photo: Cai Xianmin/GT



Wandering around the tree-lined streets in Shanghai's former French Concession, where imposing European-style brick and stucco homes sit along quiet, winding roads, makes it easy to forget that you're in China.

Made up of streets laid out over a century ago by French forces and tailor-made for the most leisurely of strolls, the area once reserved for wealthy and foreign appetites during Imperial times - with a sizeable collection of modern and upscale bars, cozy cafes and restaurants featuring international cuisines today - has an airy, romantic charm to it.

Though many of the newer establishments are the main draw for foodies with yuan to spend, beyond the quaint bakeries and cobble-stone paths, the neighborhood still offers a smattering of tasty, traditional flavors to be had in the way of cheap street food come day or night. The Global Times shares the best spots for eating like a true local in the heart of one of the city's most enviable locations.

Vendors stir fry noodles on the street Photos: Courtesy of Kyle J. Mitchell

Vendors stir fry noodles on the street Photo: Courtesy of Kyle J. Mitchell



Super stir-fry 

Once the sun settles down, stir-fry stands will start to pop up every few blocks or so. At the core of the stalls manned by "stir-fry masters" tend to be a selection of noodles.

At not even 10 kuai ($1.60) a serving, these greasy carbs are an inexpensive solution for even the meanest of hunger pains.

Among my favorite of the more prolific type of food stand throughout the city is that run by a vendor who frequents the corner of Shanxi Road South and Changle Road.

Here, he offers a choice of thin or fat noodles, which can be topped off with a spot of meat if you like, in which case the salty sausage or lap cheong is highly recommended.

As it cooks on the wok, place an order of chuaner or grilled food on a stick at the next stall over, which has enough lamb, chicken hearts and garlic shoots (among other options on a wooden rod) to satisfy any craving for Chinese-style barbeque.

Wash it all down with a can of beer from the nearby convenient store.

a plate of fried pork chops and sticky rice cakes Photo: Courtesy of Kyle J. Mitchell

A plate of fried pork chops and sticky rice cakes Photo: Courtesy of Kyle J. Mitchell



Fried chops, cakes 

A Shanghai staple developed in the early 20th century, fried pork chops and sticky rice cakes is a street eat that is about as local as it gets.

Any proud native will happily make the dish for you or take you to an old Shanghai eatery for it, but for a down and dirty delicious version, head for the stand along Fuxing Road Middle, just a couple of meters west of Xiangyang Road.

This locale, parked on one of the busiest spots on the street, with an elementary school next door, has been feeding a loyal client base for more than 10 years.

Run by two siblings, a brother-and-sister-duo set up shop daily, sometime after dawn until the sun sets, handing out the meaty fills for 12 yuan apiece.

A truly mouth-watering meal, the pork chop is generously covered in a special Shanghai sauce, something of a sweet, tangy gravy-like coating that shellacs the meat.

It's paired with glutinous rice cakes that create a satisfying finish to this hearty option. Either chase it with a beer after school hours or enjoy during the day with a cold soda.

a cook takes out a fresh tray of meat buns Photo: Courtesy of Kyle J. Mitchell

A cook takes out a fresh tray of meat buns Photo: Courtesy of Kyle J. Mitchell



Warm meat buns

These are rarely cooked out on the streets these days, but there are still crowds of people queuing outside popular shops making the meat-filled miniature pastry-like buns.

Walk down to 588 Huaihai Road Middle and stock up on a bag of these melt-in-your-mouth meat-stuffed buns. 

At Guang Ming Cun, lineups at the window hook down around the block during peak hours as residents wait to get their hands on the disc-shaped bites of heaven with a warm, flaky outside and a juicy meaty filling inside.

Bronzed just so on each side, the meaty buns are a bargain at less than a few kuai each. Find a quiet park bench and dig into them straight from the bag like locals do.

Posted in: Food

blog comments powered by Disqus