If soccer is a religion, then the Maracana Stadium in Rio de Janeiro is St. Peter's. However, while the service on Sunday must have been conducted by a visiting priest, it still seemed fitting that many of Argentina's fans were decked out as the Pope to watch their team take on World Cup debutants Bosnia.
The atmosphere on the streets of Rio had been building in the days leading up to this game, with so many Argentina shirts being proudly sported that you'd be forgiven to think that you were actually in Buenos Aires. However, that was nothing compared to the hordes that packed the metro to Maracana.
The train to the ground was a nonstop pro-Argentina rally as fans did not cease singing, beating the roof or jumping up and down, for the whole 40-minute journey. There was one momentary lull that was filled with a lone Brazilian wearing an official pass voicing that Brazil have won the World Cup five times. It was good natured and drowned out with yet more singing about a clearly much-loved Leo Messi.
The arrival at Maracana metro station started to put the game into perspective. A crowd of thousands shuffled to negotiate the ticket check 40 yards away and reach the bridge to the stadium concourse. The ticket check was rudimentary and needless. Steps behind it began the first of the signs for tickets needed and the hushed offer of tickets for sale.
The stadium location is reminiscent of the best soccer grounds in the world because it is within normal residential streets. This means that it is almost impossible to cordon off apart from the ground itself and is meant for even more people than those with match tickets milling around on the surrounding streets. Some of these people were not there just to enjoy the soccer game and one of the first sights was an East Asian gentleman being held in a headlock by armed police, apparently for pickpocketing. Another incident some minutes later saw a man in a France shirt chasing and beating a local woman for the same reason. Waiting on these streets was the first time that I had felt slightly unsafe at this World Cup.
Getting into the Maracana was smooth but finding my seat much less so. Brazilian league games sell tickets for sections of the ground and the stewards seem to think that approach is still ongoing at the World Cup. The sections are not clearly marked so finding my seat involved much circling, head-scratching and the realization that someone was in my seat despite them being convinced they were in theirs. Seat taken, the sheer scale of the stadium began to dawn on me and I was overwhelmed what an incomparable sight it is when packed for an evening kickoff.
Argentina's travelling contingent were in full voice, but locals were now in much stronger numbers and for every breath the Argentines took they were quick to remind their neighbors of the five Brazilian wins. That and chanting for Bosnia at every opportunity. The debutants were well supported, with many Bosnians in attendance and every Brazilian backing them. The biggest selling jersey in Rio over the last month had been Bosnia's and one local behind me went so far as to offer the flagwaving Bosnian fans a beer solely because they too wanted Argentina to lose.
The atmosphere was electric throughout, even if the game did not match, but it peaked when Messi scored a trademark run and finish. While Argentina will pray that the team improves enough to make their dream a reality, these fans are certainly deserving of another World Cup.