A Chilean supporter cheers for his team ahead of the Group B match between Spain and Chile in the Maracana Stadium in Rio on Wednesday during the 2014 FIFA World Cup. Photo: AFP
The atmosphere in Rio since the World Cup kicked off just over a week ago has been nothing short of electric. Fans from around the world have flocked to the city to create a buzz to match the excitement on the pitch. It's been a sea of color on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean as the yellow and green of the host nation has been joined by a veritable Pantone chart of club and national jerseys from the participating countries.
Brazil has borders with 10 countries and it's no surprise that those are the ones best represented on the streets of Rio. Argentina, Colombia and Uruguay have all popped over the border one way or another, while Mexico and Chile have both taken advantage of being a short flight away. The number of Argentina shirts has been nothing short of overwhelming, but nothing compared to the sight of their wearers sleeping on the Copacabana beach or in the cars and vans that they drove to the tournament.
Elsewhere, the USA has had a very noticeable presence at this tournament. That could be an overrepresentation, given the amount of USA-branded clothing that exists the world over, but the number of US national team jerseys is unmistakable. The Dutch always bring a good crowd and Brazil 2014 is no exception, where whole bars have been packed with nothing but orange-clad supporters. England, too, have brought more fans and face paint than a return of zero points from two games and their worst-ever record at this stage of a World Cup deserves. It's safe to say that all of the big European footballing nations - Spain, Germany, France and Italy - have all been well represented in both the number of fans and in their attitude on the streets and beaches of south Rio.
Diehard fans
The bigger countries being out in force is fully expected but the smaller teams, those from further afield and those who not expected to get beyond the group stages have also been showing their support. It was a pleasure to see two different sets of Iranian fans, especially as both were in bars and taking advantage of the different approach to drinking laws that they have over here. Australia's national export of backpackers are taking full advantage of the World Cup, and the similarities that their kit enjoys with the five-time champions, while their Asian Football Confederation compatriots Japan seem right at home with the city's obsession with sushi and yakisoba noodles.
The lack of large groups of African fans can be explained by Rio not being scheduled to host any teams from the continent until the knockout stages. It's sad to think that might not be happening but football supporters whose teams are not even playing are making up for their absence. At the Maracana I have so far sat among fans from Angola, Norway, South Africa and Canada, all here to enjoy the ambiance and to tick off attending the World Cup in Brazil from their list of ambitions.
Meanwhile, Scottish, Welsh and Irish fans from both sides of the border have all been proudly making it clear exactly which country from close to home that they are not supporting. The Scots have been the most visible and vocal in the Anyone But England stakes, and the only ones wearing tartan kilts in the tropics, but it has all been good-natured.
The interaction between fans from around the world has been jocular, and they have often come together during matches to support a different team deemed as a common enemy for those 90 minutes. They have also united to play some of the worst beach football that the Copacabana has ever had the misfortune to host.
It's been a similarly friendly tale when it comes to visitors mixing with the locals. A mutual understanding with Spanish-speaking supporters and an increasing number of Brazilians speaking English has made this possible. Needless to say that a lot of foreigners are very keen on mixing with a lot of the locals that they find sunbathing on the beach.
Bizarre scenes
This festival of football, fandom and friendship has created some pretty bizarre scenes, such as when it interacts with Rio's regular tourist trade. On the metro, I witnessed one Chile fan tell two American tourists that Cristiano Ronaldo was "very mal" and that the USA would beat Portugual to a reaction of polite befuddlement before they jumped off at the next stop.
All this international frolicking culminated in the highlight of my week at the renowned churrascaria Fogo de Chao, which is based in the Botafogo football team's club house in the district of the same name. A full house on a rainy Thursday night, the first of a two-day holiday for Corpus Christi, included a certain three-goal Dutch international named Arjen Robben and tables of football fans from around the globe.
At some time around 9 pm, and for reasons that still remain unclear but may include caipirinhas and the fact that this is a World Cup in Brazil, a table of French fans burst into song. They got to their feet and managed a couple before the Mexicans responded, then the Spanish, followed by the French leading everyone in a chorus of the White Stripes' "Seven Nation Army," the theme they adopted at the 2006 World Cup. It carried on back and forth, and more than half of the packed grillhouse was in full voice, banging their hands on tables and swirling their white napkins, with the USA getting involved by offering a chorus of the now more truthful sounding "We believe that we will win."
The best part of the hour or so of nonstop chanting was the arrival of the Chileans and them immediately getting in on the act with the rousing "Chi, Chi, Chi, Le, Le, Le, Viva Chile" that earned the response of "Where's your star?" from the Spaniards in reference to the fact that the South Americans are yet to win a World Cup even if they did stop Spain winning a second in Brazil.
"Only in Brazil" was the reaction from the Brazilian residents at my table as they shook their heads and laughed at the spectacle. Maybe they're right.