Twin peaks of creativity
- Source: Global Times
- [10:57 July 01 2010]
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French chef Jacques Pourcel. Photo: Courtesy of Red Bridge
When asked why so much time and planning is being poured into the Maison Pourcel, Jaques laughs, explaining that this will be the only restaurant of the brothers that is actually trading under the name "Pourcel." "You know that maison means 'home' in French, so when you come to the restaurant, it will be like you are visiting my home. That's why I've talked with my partner and we've decided that I will spend at least four or five months a year here, just to ensure my home is well kept."
When questioned about the style of cuisine planned, Jacques says they will be steering clear of anything that could be labeled under the catch-all term "fusion". "I think there's too much talk of fusion in Shanghai restaurants right now. What we will create and serve will not be anything too complicated or fancy. And the molecular gastronomy in France and other parts of Europe isn't as trendy as it used to be; now it is all about authentic food that encourages sustainability by using only locally sourced ingredients in season."
The restaurant will have three sections with the lower floor given over to tapas style dining along with a bar where guests can drink without eating. The middle floor houses the kitchen while the top floor will be for the brothers' signature fine dining.
The twins were previously involved with Shanghai's Sens & Bund, a venture that came to a less than gracious end in 2008 due to "disagreements as to how the restaurant should be run," according to Jacques. But with a maturing market and the financial crisis a distant memory, the two feel this is the right time to launch a comeback. And Jacques is confident they have the right philosophy to succeed. "Our approach has always been about contrasts. In 30 years of cooking our style has gradually evolved, largely as a result of our travels to places like Thailand, Morocco and Tokyo. We have tasted and learnt from the food everywhere we've been and these influences mean our menus are constantly adapting."
