Antiquities that walk and talk
- Source: Global Times
- [10:19 July 20 2010]
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The Empress' new clothes. Photo: Courtesy of Bund 18
By Mao Jiayu
Combining European haute couture with ancient Chinese aesthetics, Hubert Barerre's new exhibition offers an interesting insight into how his designs have been influenced by both Western and Oriental fashions down the ages. The French corset-maker and embroiderer's new show at Bund 18 is entitled Conversation and each of the designer's dresses on show is displayed alongside a picture of an ancient piece of art from the Chu Kingdom during the Warring States (475-221 BC), a period which Barrere cites as greatly inspiring his work. The art pieces all belong to the French collector Jacques Barrere (no relation) who founded his Paris-based gallery in 1969. The artworks replicated at the show at Bund 18 include a statue of a high class Sui lady of the royal court and a wooden sculpture of a Tang Dynasty courtesan.
Barrere's couture outfits symbolize an intense femininity, mirroring the sensual forms of the Chinese statues from which he seeks inspiration. In his own garments - as in the sandstone statues - the figures are elegantly fine, the lines are fluid and the curves of the hips are rippling.
At the front entrance to the exhibition is a red gown, which Barrere sees as symbolic of China. The upper part of the dress is stitched with gold embroidery in the traditional patterns of long and feng. In ancient China, long and feng usually referred to the emperor and empress. And Barrere cites the gold embroidery on the red stitching as reminiscent of the patterns on Chinese lacquer boxes. The lower part of the dress has an almost metallic sheen to it. "The dress is inspired by traditional Chinese culture. But China is also a very modern and dynamic country, so I used this material to express the country's modernity," Barrere told the Global Times.
Another white gown is inspired from the kasaya or flowing robes of a sitting Buddha statue. This one-shoulder draped and skin-colored dress is made entirely of silk. And a chocolate colored dress matched with a dark purple down jacket is similarly inspired by an ancient female muse.
While a simple black gauze and long draped dress echoes that of a terracotta statue of a lady of the royal court from the Tang Dynasty (618 - 807). Antoine Barrere, director of the Jacques Barrere Gallery, explained: "This piece comes from one of the most prosperous times in Chinese ancient history. The image reveals society's success and its love of culture. While the black dress made by Hubert combines not only Chinese elements, but also elements from ancient Greece and the Middle East. Hubert Barrere is always trying to tell the stories behind his designs."
As well as the statues, Barrere has also found inspiration in traditional Chinese architecture. The tinsel shoulder pad on a dress with a trellis design, for example, echoes the roof eaves of ancient Chinese pavilions.
Barrere says that he gains a lot of inspiration from visiting museums and galleries. "The ancient Asian art pieces always attract me when I visit these places. I was particularly compelled by the techniques and craftsmanship of the sculptures from the Warring States period. They are very simple and plain. And the appearance of rocks reminds me of some western totems and also the works of the Italian sculptor Constantin Brancusi."
Barrere is one of the France's most famous corset-makers, and has worked with international brands such as Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Christian Dior and Givenchy.
