Cave dwellings carved into the mountain. Photo: CFP

For many, when you think of where old Beijingers used to live, you instantly envisage hutong around the Forbidden City. However, some of Beijing's oldest residences are quite far from this area and quite different in character.

Some 120 kilometers from downtown Beijing, a series of caves cut out of a mountain neighbor Dongmenying village in Yanqing county. Named Gu Yan Ju, meaning "ancient cliff of inhabitance," the caves were once a prosperous home for the Xi ethnic group, who inhabited northern China 1,000 years ago.

Instead of building their homes on flat ground, they had their shelter constructed in the caves. This was a strategic move, trying to protect themselves against the oppression and threat of slavery that they experienced at the hands of Tang Dynasty (618-907) officials.

These original excavators only dwelled there for about 30 years, but the area remained occupied by people from the following Liao, Jin and Yuan dynasties (916-1368). Rumor has it, during later historical episodes the caves were even occupied by garrisons.

The creation of the cave dwellings was no small feat. There are 48 residential caves in total, scattered around a 2.4 square kilometer region. Some scientists estimate that it would take 100 people five years of constant exertion to turn the mountain into caves like this. Certainly there is nothing quite like this around Beijing.

 
Large rooms fill the caves. Photo: CFP

If you think that living in the caves was tough and miserable, think again. Each residential cave contained on average three rooms. And these rooms were pretty spacious both in height and width. Living in a mountain did not curtail the grand designs of the people, who intended to turn the caves into a place of paradise catering for all of life's wants and needs.

The rooms were divided into stables, bedrooms, living rooms and kitchens. The bedrooms were equipped with stoves, lamp stands and closets, while the kitchens came with stone cisterns.

You can even find huge palace style caves that divide into two floors, most likely used for conferences among the group leaders. All in all, today's urbanite will surely envy all the space, wishing they could live in a time free from anxiety over high housing costs and restricted living space.

Sadly now the caves and the mountain that they occupy are rather desolate. Their labyrinth-like layout is also fairly complicated. If you go there be careful not to lose your way. Otherwise, you might experience more than you bargained for, living like your ancient ancestors in this dark, cold place for days. 

Address: Dongmenying village, Zhangshanying town, Yanqing county

延庆县张山营乡东门营村

Admission: 30 yuan per person

Opening hours: 8 am - 4 pm