At that time of life when other young girls wallpapered their bedrooms with posters of slick-haired, sloe-eyed boy singers, I covered my walls with the world. From magazines, newspapers and travel brochures I clipped maps and images of faraway places, taking the greatest pleasure in foraging their leaves for news of exotic lands. No stranger to journeying, I had come from a family fortunate to make seasonal jaunts to many major cities. By the time I was 10 I had seen as many states, gone as far south as Corpus Christi on the Texas border, and crossed north into Canada. We never headed west, however, and so this region of my vast homeland long held a special mystery for me. My dreams of visiting the famed Yellowstone, the world's first National Wildlife Park, were stirred by the magnificent, full-color foldout photo spreads in National Geographic and Smithsonian magazines depicting it as a cross between the vanished Wild West and the planet Mars. The park's features seemed to all have fabled names like Dragon's Cauldron, Mammoth Hot Springs, Geyser Hill, Old Faithful, Grand Prismatic Spring, Rainbow Pool, Boiling River, Firehole Falls. 

It was not until my honeymoon that I found opportunity to visit the park. My husband's childhood friend, Janine Waller, while a guest at our wedding, mentioned her new job as a park ranger there.   "Come see the park," she told us. "I'll show you around." That was all the invitation we required.  A month later, we packed up our car and hit the road.

Dreamwalking

"Yellowstone can be a pretty overwhelming place for travelers," allows Janine Waller, Park Ranger and Acting Editor at Yellowstone Science magazine. "There is so much to see. People coming from all over the world will have their own 'in,' something special they want to see and experience, whether it's the fumaroles, the mountains, the flora or fauna. There's no place like it on the planet; it is always changing."

My 'in' was the cauldrons, those smoking pits of earthen wonder that continuously appear with an unpredictability that has staggered generations of geologists. Many are centuries old, bubbling over like a powerful witch's brew. Some, having sprung up overnight, can fetter out in just a matter of hours, swallowed into the earth like a goblin's contraband. I must have stood on the wooden planks before the Canary Cauldron for the better part of an hour, captivated by its otherworldly beauty. From behind the railings of wooden boardwalks, travelers safely can view areas of hydrothermal activity, as the ground surrounding fumaroles are fragile, not to mention scalding hot to the touch, and visitors have died in them. The hydrothermal features include fumaroles (hot sulphurous vapors spewing up from cracks in the earth), geysers (superheated water ejecting high into the air), and many-colored hot springs. 

Fellow traveler Ed, an American man aged 67, shared with me how he left home to spend a winter tracking the park's wolves upon learning he had terminal cancer. "I told my wife this is something I just have to do, something I've always wanted to do my whole life." Ed's eyes lit up when he talked of the wildlife at Yellowstone. "I read this photo essay book, Once around the Sun, about Yellowstone, and it changed my life." The book details the lives of the park's animals over the course of a full calendar year.  He told me, "I don't know how much time I've got left, and I want to make the most of it. Every day. And this is one of my dreams."

The myriad wildlife of Yellowstone is dazzling, and the park is kept in excellent repair, animals are well protected and monitored. Yellowstone is home to wolves, eagles, bison, hawks, foxes, elk, moose, Canada lynx, brown Grizzly bears, black bears, mountain lions, beavers, mountain goats, and dhal sheep. The birds, wildflowers and trees are of a rare celestial beauty, and detailed study of them takes multiple visits over changing seasons.

Alarms and diversions

Yellowstone National Park stretches across three states: Montana, Idaho and Wyoming. Our visit began through the park's North Entrance near Bozeman, Montana. The entire park grounds encompass mountains, forests, meadows, lakes and rivers. It is home to 50 percent of the hydrothermal features on Earth's surface. Founded in 1872, this National Park attracts over 2.5 million visitors annually. 

Our first stop was Old Faithful. A naturally occurring geyser, approximately every ninety minutes Old Faithful shoots about 50 meters into the air with the regularity of a clockwork leviathan. It is heralded as the most predictable geyser on Earth.  In between spoutings, wander into the lavish Old Faithful Inn. Constructed in 1904, the structure is a man-made wonder of lodge pole pine. We marveled at the cathedral ceilings, the four-story lobby, and the inn's spectacular fireplace, made from 500 tons of stone. 

On our trip, we found the many self-guided hiking trails most enjoyable. Quiet walks through the woods made for a refreshing retreat during the hot late morning and early afternoon hours following the boardwalk circuit. The hiking trails are labeled according to skill, from easy to moderate to challenging.  Rangers recommend the more moderate paths for families with small children. Backcountry hikes can last days, heading into the mountains and trailing through miles of wilderness. Permits are required for backcountry hikes, fishing and boating. Camping trips by tent, cabin or trailer are available to fit every budget, and some camp areas are open all four seasons. Horseback riding is also available. 

Later in our day, we took a drive along The Great Loop, a path known for large wildlife spotting, and witnessed three bear cubs' battle with a bison, from a very safe distance of hundreds of meters. Though easy on the eye, the park has its dangers, too. "People die every year because they ignore the posted signs telling them not to interact with wildlife," Ranger Waller warned.  Bears? I guessed. "No, bison," she replied. Tourists will approach the bison for a photo opportunity that turns deadly. Many Asian tourists mistake the American buffalo or bison, a behemoth with sharp horns and a nasty temperament, for the docile water buffalo common in the Far East. The animals, rangers will tell you, are not cousins. The male bison weighs up to two tons and can emerge victorious from combat with a grizzly bear. 

"Why don't the bison move when surrounded by honking steel cars?" I put the question to Ranger Waller. She laughed, replying, "Are you afraid of the Subaru, or is the Subaru afraid of you?" Got it. The bison are not threatened by cars. When visiting the park, obey all posted signs. Safety information pamphlets are free and available at all ranger stations.

For an enjoyable dinner after a long day in the sun, visit West Yellowstone or Gardiner. Both Montana towns are short drives from the park grounds. Many vendors sell original artwork and local Native American handicrafts. The restaurants serve up simple local fare, including bison steaks and burgers.  The tasty meat is also healthy, as the American buffalo is the only mammal immune to cancer. Ice cream parlors and souvenir shops line the small town avenues, making for a pleasant evening stroll. Duck into a firelit pub for hot cider and spiced rum during colder months. 

Be prepared

Bring plenty of fresh drinking water and a bagged lunch as bottled water and luncheon prices shoot up considerably the nearer you get to the park. A hat with a visor or large brim will keep the harsh sunlight off of your face and neck during summer months, and a woolen hat with a fleece lining is a must during winter and late autumn visits, as are mittens or gloves with a warm lining, and warm footwear. We lose 70 percent of our body heat through our head and feet, so keep well bundled in the winter and wear layers in spring, summer and fall. 

The region covers hundreds of miles of lodge pole pine forestland.  To better spot wildlife, purchase a pair of binoculars from the park stores. Bring a rain coat or poncho and be sure to dress in layers, as temperatures can range from chilly to sweltering in the course of a day.

No matter how you choose to spend your visit, sturdy walking shoes are also a must. Bring moleskin or bandages to treat any blisters or cuts, but for more serious injuries, or sudden chills which may indicate hypothermia or severe dehydration, head straight for a first aid tent, or ask a ranger for help. Drink water before you think you need it, and keep plenty of salt in your diet, such as crisps and nuts, as the body's natural heating and cooling systems dispense with saline and water regularly.  

Yellowstone National Park is, to use the parlance of popular American novelist George R.R. Martin, a song of ice and fire, and it is perhaps the most breathtaking natural attraction in all of North America. "Some visitors come here every year, some come once in their lifetimes, but there is something here for everyone, and the visit is guaranteed to be unforgettable," said one volunteer who spent five consecutive summers working in the park. A journey into Yellowstone is enough to convince the most intrepid traveler that yes, Mr Bowie, there is life on Mars.

Rules of Thumb

Leave no trace: A firm rule of camping and park tours is: "If you pack it in, pack it out." A small nylon shopping bag is always a good idea, one that can easily be tucked away when not in use, as plastic bags account for a great deal of unwanted trash on park grounds. Never litter; always put your trash away in a small bag on your person until you spot a proper trash receptacle. Seek out recycling bins. Though the park was nationalized in the 19th century, people have been living in and visiting Yellowstone's lands for thousands of years.  Do your part to keep the legacy alive for future generations. For more information on how you can help to make your trip more responsible, go to www.lnt.org.

Logistics: The park is open 365 days a year, but the best time to visit Yellowstone is late summer and autumn (August through September), when the peak of tourist season has fallen and lodging prices are more competitive.  To plan your trip today, contact the park directly at: www.nps.gov/yell or telephone the park toll-free (outside the US, dial country code 001) at 866-439-7375. The Yellowstone Association offers short courses and vacation packages. Contact the association at (001)-406-848-2400 or visit www.yellowstoneassociation.org.