A group of young Polish girls dressed in traditional outfits perform at a local music festival. Photo: Chen Chenchen/GT

The streets of Krakow showcase old buildings with modern influences. Photo: Chen Chenchen/GT
 

This week's destination

Waiting for a flight from Berlin to Krakow, I encountered a father returning to his Polish hometown with his two adorable kids. Upon hearing that I was a first-time traveler to Krakow, Poland's old capital before the 16th century and a splendid cultural center today, the father perked up, and with pride beaming from within, he remarked: "It is a very beautiful city!"

Indeed, I was instantly struck by the beauty of Krakow. It's hard to put into words exactly what I was feeling when we stepped into the city, with its marvelous buildings and vivid streaks of color everywhere. But it was something of a sense of awe at the fabled scenery.

Charming old town

Krakow's old town is like a grand castle in fairy tale. It was a world of bright yellow mansions, gothic jade green bell towers of churches, and long, red-brick walls contrasted by gray stone paths. The weather was changeful. At one moment, there was wide expanse of clear, sunlit sky. And the next, a soft drizzle began dancing around us.

The city looks completely different in sun and in rain. When the weather is clear, wandering through the city in an open carriage is a pleasant experience for tourists. The large, white horses and spotless seats are reminiscent of 19th century novels like Pride and Prejudice, depicting the suburban life of girls in dresses making their way down the streets in horse-drawn carriages.

It was a passionate, 40-minute ride through the alleys of the city's old town. The most impressive part was not a bright street scene, but the azure sky framed by historic, royal roofs and moving shadows along the streets, which are outdone only by the imposing mansions that stand tall by their sides. 

As we left an amber jewel shop, the scorching sunlight that had followed us in, on the backs of our necks, had already disappeared and in its place was a mild, comfortable breeze and ever sporadic tiny drops of rain. Across the way, an old church, where a sweet wedding ceremony has just concluded, a striking lady, in a royal blue jumper and black high heels, was accompanied by a tall, young man holding out an umbrella for her. Dressed in their best attire, the others refused to scatter, chatting leisurely to one another in the square, by the doorstep of the church as the drizzle of rain pitter-pattered lightly.

Some time later, the rain stopped and we prepared ourselves for a night out on the town, where a grand music festival held beside the river surrounding this old, majestic-like city was celebrated with a brilliant display of fireworks.

The city had been immersed in melodic sounds since the afternoon, when a magical parade, with young people marching in matrix, wearing traditional costumes and playing an assortment of instruments, passed right in front of our eyes. A welcoming bunch, the young boys and girls were not shy, smiling confidently into our camera lenses.

Another group assembled into a small square nearby, where a temporary stage was formed, like those used for high-school graduations, performing a typical Polish dance. In pairs, they spun round and round again, linked together by their arms, kicking their legs high and stamping the ground with their feet - all to the beat of a happy-go-lucky-style of music.

Strips of fire engine red-colored ribbons were tied to the girls' hair and shiny, tall boots worn by the boys added a nice touch to the musical scene. And with the sun back out, BBQ stalls selling roast sausages and beer suddenly became very busy. It was a very merry and cheerful occasion.

Underground kingdom of salt

The underground salt mine in Krakow is a must-see. Built in the 13th century and placed on the original UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites, the salt mine - more like a kingdom of salt sculptures - is pristine and graceful in an unexpected way.

Wooden stairways lead visitors down the 327-meter-deep mine, but tourists can only reach a depth of 130 meters. As we made our way down, I felt the chill of the mine reach into my bones. Looking above or below was dreadful after we hit a depth of 70 meters as the stairways appeared bottomless at both ends.

Salt is everywhere. Walking through the neat passages supported by sturdy, wooden pillars, it was hard to believe that we were completely surrounded by salt. In mediaeval Europe, the management of salt was state-controlled - and it was as expensive as gold. If you look closely at the walls, you'll see marks created by tourists, who in disbelief of the cold, white sheet covering the side of the mine, carved out a tiny piece to taste-test the salt crystals. The massive salt stalagmites hanging from the high ceiling of the mine seem more like impressive whisks of magic under the dim lighting.

In this world of salt, there are churches, dining halls and stalls where horses lived hundreds of years ago, and even opera houses and sanatoriums. It is said that being a salt miner was a decent job back then, but also very risky. Miners prayed to the gods in underground salt churches and sought joy from making salt sculptures at leisure. My personal favorite was the main church. Full of vivid figurine-type sculptures, they help narrate the country's underground history.

The on-site salt museum, the perfect stop for families with young children, a series of sculptures illustrate what life in the salt mine was like. The sculptures showcase men with long beards because unlike professionals such as doctors at the time, miners stayed underground for lengthy periods of time, giving their beards a chance to grow considerably long, we learned from our tour guide.

Auschwitz: a dark place

The infamous Auschwitz concentration camp is about a 40-minute bus ride from Krakow's city center and is a life-changing experience - be prepared to leave the place feeling gravely depressed and with little appetite despite the respectful presentation of history.

Our tour guide started by reading the words of philosopher George Santayana inscribed on the walls of the No.4 building at the entrance: "The one who does not remember history is bound to live through it again."

Inside, the horrifying stories of at least 1.1 million Jews who were brought here, packed trainload after another, to die, are detailed through haunting and harrowing pictures. The images show disheartening scenes from some of the darkest moments of the time - including the separation of men from the women and children and their subsequent trips to the "showers" or worse - etched into our minds with help from Steven Spielberg's renowned film Schindler's List.

In the next room, sickening stacks of human hair are piled up, filling massive glass displays, while other exhibits in the building reveal all the objects taken from the Jews that met their unfortunate fates here - from children's shoes to pairs of glasses and even the artificial limbs of people who had a disability.

In front of the "Wall of Death," built at an execution site to prevent bullets from ricocheting back, the display of two wreaths - one sent by a German - were very touching. As ever-deep scars from one of the darkest pages in history continue to heal, the site serves as a solemn reminder of what must never happen again.

No one can deny that Poland is not without its own sweet charms. For visitors, the lovely Krakow is a sure draw with its impressive architecture embodying the very romantic notions of the city. The old town is a walk through heaven with its bright, bold features playing sharply in the backdrop.

A modern European feel blends in nicely with the city's international appeal, mostly evident through its shiny new buildings and the rows of stores on major shopping streets housing international brands. The city that offers a pleasant environment, quiet strolls and sites of significance is destined to satisfy any traveler looking for a bit of fun and history.

Rules of Thumb

What to eat: I didn't quite take to Polish food, but for anyone craving Chinese food in Krakow, I would highly recommend China Palace. The authentic Cantonese cuisine served there greatly satisfied my longing for a taste from home.

What to buy: Show your family and friends that you didn't forget about them while you were away when you return home. Find crafty souvenirs in the city's old town. There are plenty of street side artists selling their sketches, watercolor paintings and oil paintings, which make a nice and thoughtful gift. Don't be afraid to negotiate a preferred price, but don't be insulting by halving prices. After all, it isn't China.

When to show: Be sure to be on time - or early - when you visit Auschwitz. There is a constant stream of visitors from open to close. Visitors are required to make an appointment beforehand. If you're late you risk losing your spot and having to reschedule.